“Life isn’t about waiting for the storm to pass – It’s about learning how to dance in the rain!”
Personally, I don’t think Gibraltar-time is as slow as anywhere else or is it that we do so much? After all, we only have a finite time at our fingertips? Or is it that because we do so much, time just travels at a great rate of knots? Or is it that I am just getting old? Anyway, I am waffling and trying to think of why I haven’t written for a month and I think the reason is, we have been so busy just living!
We haven’t been anywhere new but we have had a hundred new experiences as we have dug deeper into the places we love……
Royal Visitors to Gibraltar
When I say Royal, I am not talking about the forthcoming visit of the Earl and Countess of Wessex to the Rock, no, it’s far more important than that; I am talking about the much heralded visit of the ‘in-laws’. These are our last visitors to Gibraltar, as our plans to move home to the UK gather pace. So, have they been very clever in timing their visit? Did they feel leaving it until the last moment that my wife and I would be at our most knowledgeable about the surrounding area, or did one of them have an innate fear of flying that needed a happy pill the size of which would see a shy elephant doing flamenco in casemates on National Day! I think it was the latter and needless to say we did not mention that Gibraltar Airport is one of the 10 scariest in the world! So at last they arrived for one week of what we had promised would be non-stop fun in the sun. Then it happened – it rained and rained and rained……but this did not stop us one iota – we had things to do – we had things to see.
The Gibraltar Museum is a great start for any visitor. Ever wondered what Gibraltar looked like 30,000 years ago? Do you want to learn more about the Great Siege? Or more importantly do you want an insight into what it really means to be a Gibraltarian? How much? I hear you say……….well for two of your hard earned pounds you can learn so much…outstanding value. It is fascinating stuff and I am sure I still haven’t seen all of the pictures. But enough of the history, what we need now is Gambas Pil-Pil from the Seawave at Caleta (The name La Caleta meaning ‘small bay or cove’). While down in Catalan Bay, all of our visitors are guided to stick their heads into the Church of our Lady of Sorrows and in doing so you can really feel the Genoese history of yesteryear – a wonderful village away from mainstream Gibraltar. Our appetite suitably sated, it’s then up the Rock for a Giblogswallop tour of the Nature Park and thankfully on this occasion there was some respite from the weather so we could see the wondrous views. I, for one, will never tire of the ‘Coo’s’ or the ‘Wow’s’ as the new visitors share in the experience that we too went through some time ago. Afternoon tea or morning coffee at the Rock Hotel (obviously the other way round if you are going on the same day) are always enjoyable as you look upon Gibraltar Bay through their windows like a big TV screen. Afterwards, a descent through the Alameda Gardens is an absolute must; founded in 1816 at the initiative of the Governor, General George Don, they were to provide an area of recreation for the residents of Gibraltar. For many years they served this purpose but in the 1970s they fell into a state of disrepair. It wasn’t until 1991 when the Government of Gibraltar contracted a firm of environmental managers that the gardens were restored and converted into a botanic garden. Today, they are a living collection representative of Gibraltar; there is a vast display and collection of plants from Mediterranean climatic zones around the world that is a sight to behold.
Also very important for us with when we have visiting Royalty (as you try and show all of Gibraltar in a very quick time) – is not necessarily the commerce of Main Street or the cafes and lovely afternoons in Casemates (although they are important) but to show the peace and tranquillity and the beautiful architecture of the avenues and alleyways that provide a labyrinth of discovery in the city’s hinterland. We love walking up and down steps marvelling at the beauty of the restored houses and equally admiring the innate elegance of the now tired properties or balconies that have seen so much…….wondering to ourselves who had stood high above and what they had viewed from their lofty height over the years.
There is so much to do in Gibraltar…..Europa Point…Rosia Bay….Landport Gate….Moorish Castle…to name a few…….however one pilgrimage is to visit the Trafalgar Cemetery to be at one with those who gave their lives so that we can enjoy the life we have today. But more than this, you can then take the experience further with a journey up the Costa de la Luz to Cape Trafalgar. Here, one can marvel at the history that unfurled just a few cables from the shore (a cable is a mariner’s measure of 200 yards). A silent moment!
On other days, we had wonderful trips to Vejer de la Frontera, we caught the train to Ronda (one of our favourite days out) and we went to Castellar (this was one of the mother-in-law’s personal favourites – the early morning tranquillity up on high, watching the swallows dive in and out of the ancient castellation and all with our wonderful Gibraltar smiling at us in the distance). Differing days, to admire the Moorish Andalusia and to sample Spain. And boy, did my Father in Law and I do some sampling! Some fantastic Tapas and some really rustic bars were enjoyed – TAPATASTIC!
Some visitors to the Rock go to the top in a cable car, take a picture of a view without understanding what they are seeing – they will never understand the hurt and heartache below them or the joy and belief and strength of the people – they shake hands with an ape and then go home again totally ignorant of what they haven’t seen. However, you can ask all of our visitors…..they go home with a fantastic experience behind them, but it isn’t the Spanish sun, sea and sand memories they depart with…..It is the magic and mystique of Gibraltar that they have enjoyed; it is the immensity of something so magnificent, so full of character, so vibrant that will forever stay with them. They too love Gibraltar as much as we do.
Levanter
The levant is an easterly wind that blows in the western Mediterranean. It has particular resonance when the wind blows through the Strait of Gibraltar and locally it is known as the Viento de Levante or the Levanter. Usually gentle and damp, the levant frequently brings clouds and rain and the wind is particularly known for creating a particular cloud formation above Gibraltar.
The Levanter winds can occur at any time in the year, but are most common from May to October. (Now!) So Geography lesson over, imagine my surprise when I looked out of my office window and saw what I thought was an avalanche coming towards me. The photos below are taken on a very basic mobile phone but nonetheless show the drama that unfolds when the temperature on Gibraltar plunges from 32 degs C to 17 degs C in less than an hour. The result was nothing less than spectacular.


Les Miserables
St Michael’s Cave is an amazing, natural, phenomenon and because of its easy access means thousands of people can marvel at its wonder. Thought to be bottomless and first mentioned in the writings of Roman travel writer Pomponius Melia in 45C……
He (Pompey for short!) described Gibraltar as:
“A mountain with wonderful concavities, which has its western side almost opened by a large cave which may be penetrated far into the interior.”
St Michael’s Cave has seen millions of visitors since then though not all with tourism in mind! For instance, there were 500 Spanish soldiers who were led to safety by the shepherd who knew a secret path to safety and I am sure you know that legend has it that the Rock of Gibraltar was linked to North Africa via a subterranean passage through which the famous Barbary Apes were said to have arrived in Gibraltar.
It was in this great cavern that we had come to watch our concert performed by The Calpe Rooke Band and their ensemble. Tickets were sold out weeks ago – such was the demand, they had to put on an extra show. Les Misérables is an 1862 French novel by author Victor Hugo that is widely considered one of the greatest novels of the nineteenth century. In 1980, a musical of the same name opened in Paris – obviously this was in French so in 1985 an English language version opened in London – produced by Cameron Mackintosh and the rest, they say is history…….or should I say that it has now become one of the most successful musicals in history.
Having been transported up the side of the Rock as the sun was beginning to lower in the sky, we left the dry heat of the day behind and walked into the cool, dark caves, full of expectation. We found two seats just as the lights went down and the band struck up and were immersed in the openings of the concert before we could even uncork our bottle of red! After a faltering start, the main characters began to step forward to belt out the songs and the story – the concert gathered pace. The output of the band combined with the immense power of Jean Valjean, Javert and Marius’s voices made me wonder if the menacing stalactites hanging above us might become dislodged! We knew the songs well enough to sing along, as did so many of the audience – feet were tapping for the Master of the House, fists were clenched for ‘Who am I’ and tissues were out for the death of Fantine. An amateur (they have real jobs!) production it may have been – but the appreciation of the time commitment it takes to pull such a show together, the voices doing justice to the original plus the setting of the spectacular, illuminated St Michael’s caves made it one of our most memorable nights in Gibraltar (or ever!). ‘Bring him home’ was sung with such passion that our tears would be adding to the stalagmites of tomorrow (also its important to understand as you sit there that every drip that relentlessly dripped on my nose had taken a century to gather pace and travel through the limestone down onto me!). We felt lucky, nay privileged to have witnessed something special……we were not in the West End of London……but we were watching Gibraltar’s finest performing and giving their all; in the very heart of the Rock. When the cast and band had taken their final bows, and having finished our bottle of wine during the performance (we popped the cork during one of the loud parts!) we merrily skipped down the Rock hand in hand in the pitch black, the fairy lights of the city below guiding us home, repeating and singing the songs and of course declaring our undying love (again) for Gibraltar.
One Swallow
One swallow does not a summer make…….this was the title of this post……but never again will I dismiss the sight of a swallow………first one, then a couple, then all of a sudden they are here in their hundreds…..it is May…..it rained in April……it is hot now…….and to all those in England, the swallows are on their way……..but for us……for the moment….in Gibraltar…….the summer is here! And for many years to come, we as a family, for us many sentences will always start with……….”When we were in Gibraltar……………”








The golf course at our resort, although a little shorter than most courses, was a real challenge with its doglegs and undulating greens. The swimming pools however were not – beautifully sheltered in a re-creation of the Andalucian courtyard, although cold (ish) the girls did try them out each day! I, however, only went in once – not sure whether it was the cold water for that time of year or if it was lack of time over the next few days(golf!). Easter Sunday is a wonderful spectacle all over Catholic Spain from the Semana Santa processions in the big cities to the intimate occasions in the smaller villages. We chose Mojacar and were not disappointed. Having secured a table in a cafe alongside the main square, we watched with interest as the well dressed townsfolk gathered in the Plaza – we felt privileged to be witnessing a religious event which is so important to the country we have come to love. As the church bells began to chime, the noise and chatter died away as the town’s population were drawn away up the street and into the church for the service. Half an hour later as cannons fired, the all important procession began – this was the bit we desperately wanted to see – but it clearly was going in the opposite direction to us. We waited as the music disappeared down the beautiful, steep, white washed streets and around the corner out of sight. Time passed and we were worried we had misjudged our position and were going to miss the whole thing. As we wandered down the back streets to try and catch it as it snaked around the narrow, ancient town, we were in luck – the music in the distance became louder until there it was, the slow, melodic procession appearing under an archway in all its glory. Jesus was held aloft, supported by ten local men dressed sombrely in black suits – in contrast were the meadow like flowers around the base of the ‘paso’, swaying as the procession moved along. The band was made up of mainly young people, so smart in their uniforms, and they were then followed another ’paso’ carrying Mary. The music made us feel emotional, as did the fact we were at last taking part in the Semana Santa celebrations, our last opportunity on our adventure in Gibraltar and Southern Spain.
















